Buying a Car

If you are buying a car, it is always prudent to carry out a Car Data Check before you actually go to see it. It may save you a lot of time and money in the long run. This check will tell you the correct vehicle data, which can be checked prior to viewing the car. ie: registration number, chassis number, date of registration, number of owners, date of last keeper change. As well as showing if a car has previously been stolen, or written off. This check will also indicate if there is any finance outstanding on the vehicle, which should prevent it from legally being sold.

We also have the following advice for anybody looking to buy a car to ensure that you don’t buy a beautiful swan only to find it turns out to be an ugly duckling.

Viewing a Car

When viewing a car, try to arrange do it on your own terms, don’t just fit it in when the vendor is free as you may be rushed into making a decision.

1. Never view a car in the rain or the dark. You will not be able to notice any scratches, dents or poor paintwork in these conditions.

2. Don’t rush and try to spend some time looking around the car on your own. You may be distracted, or miss something if the seller is showing you the around the car at his pace.

The Exterior

Walk right around the car, taking it all in. Note any scratches or scuffs, and look along the cars length with the light coming over your shoulder to check for any dents to the bodywork. Check the gaps between the panels for equal distance on both sides, and front and back. Run your finger along the gaps to get a better feel. Poor panel alignment or uneven gaps indicate panels being repaired or replaced, which could mean accident damage. Look closely at all panels for over spray or runs in the paintwork. Original paintwork should be free of runs and without an “orange peel” effect. A good place to look for masking lines from any previous paintwork is around the window seals. Rust on a car is obviously a bad sign, check around the wheel arches and on the boot or tailgate, these areas are more prone to rust than others. Many cars have had minor shunts or dings and it is not uncommon for a used car to have had paintwork carried out within it’s lifetime. Always ask the owner if the car has had any paint or has been involved in any accidents. There may be a perfectly reasonable explanation for paintwork to be carried out, however if you are in any doubt, and are still considering purchasing the vehicle arrange for an independent inspection to be carried out.
Check all the wheels and tyres, the wheels should sit neatly in the wheel arches, equally on both sides, and the front wheels should be directly in line with the back. Look closely at each tyre, including the spare. Check for uneven wear, which could mean suspension damage or poor tracking. Check alloy wheels for kerb damage. Wheel refurbishment or replacment tyres can be expensive, so use this as a bargaining tool. The minimum legal tread depth is 1.6mm for the whole way around the tyre. Use a tread depth gauge to see how much is left the more, the better.

The Interior

Sit inside the car and take stock of the overall size, legroom, headroom and comfort. to ensure it will be suitable for the purpose it is intended.
There are plenty of things to check inside the car, which can offer a good indication of the mileage and the amount of care and attention the vehicle has had
Look around the interior in general a 40,000 mile car shouldn't have a threadbare, sagging seat or a steering wheel, gearknob or pedal covers which have obviously been worn by lots of use.

Make sure all the seatbelts work, they could indicate a previous crash or general neglect. They're a legal requirement too, a car will fail it’s M.O.T test if any of the seatbelts are not working.

Look closely at the odometer. If the car has an older, mechanical style clock, which turn as you drive, make sure all the barrels are aligned correctly. Turning these back is the oldest trick in the book for unscrupulous sales people.

Although it is not as easy to tamper with newer digital style odometers, it is still possible, make sure the displyed mileage tallies with any old M.O.T certificates or service history. Ask the vendor if the vehicle has been subject to an odometer change or if the mileage has been altered.

Check all the dashboard and steering column panels are bolted on correctly . They could point to a clocked car, or even one which has been stolen. If the dashboard is not fitted correctly ask for an explanation as to why this may be.

Make sure all the switches work – including the heater or air-con - and check the front seats move about properly
Check all the numbers match the logbook, M.O.T and service history. If they do not, it would be wise to walk away.

Under The Bonnet

When you have finished checking the cars appearance it is time to carry out some futher basic checks.
Check for any signs of oil leaks around the top of the engine, along with underneath. Leaks may be more obvious to a cars underside than on top.
Remove the dipstickwipe it with a cloth and replace for a couple of seconds. Pull it out again and look at the amount of oil, it should be in between the min and max level indicator, if it is not, it could mean that the owner hasn’t been looking after it properly. The oil should be a golden colour, sludgy black oil is a sign the engine could be damaged, however a diesel engine’s oil, may have a darker appearance than petrol engines without too much need for concern.
Look around the oil filler cap for a white gooey, mayonnaise like substance, if present, this could be an indication of a damaged head gasket which can be very expensive to put right.
After checking the water level & hoses it is time to start the car.
Always start a car you are viewing from cold. This will allow you to see how the car is likely to respond after laying up for nay time, and can highlight any difficult start issues. Allow the car to run whilst you listento the engine, and check for any excess smoke from the exhaust. Blue smoke can indicate possible turbo damage, whilst a little white smoke, particularly in cold weathet may be inocquous enough.
Allow the car to get to running temperature, and check that the fans in the car blow hot when set, and that when the the air con is on blow cold. If all is in order it is time to move on.

Test-drive

It's all very well kicking tyres on a forecourt or in a showroom, but that's no substitute for getting behind the wheel. A test drive is a vital part of the decision making process never buy a car without one.
Weekends are a bad time for test-drives if you’re looking at a popular car from a dealership, and roads can also be very busy. If possible try to arrange your test drive in the middle of the week when both the dealerships and the roads are quiet.

Try to give it an extended test drive. A dealership or private seller may offer resistance, but push for at least a half-an-hour drive. Don’t just drive around the block, try to cover a variety of different road types. Try towns, country roads motorways to get a feel for how the car handles, also go over some speed humps to highlight any suspension noise.
If you have a bad back or suffer health issues, make sure you can easily get in and out of the car, and sit comfortably for a period of time.

You need to check all the aspects of how a car drives in order to assess if it will suit you and your needs. When out on a test drive, make sure you’re happy with the following:

1. Steering
2. Gear change
3. Acceleration and brakes
4. Overall size
5. Ride comfort and noise
6. Seat adjustability
7. All-round legroom
8. Boot and storage space
9. Visibility
10. Entertainment systems (radio, CD,etc)

If after following these pieces of advice, you are happy with your findings, and with the deal you have negotiated, you can be slightly more confident that you are making an informed decision when purchasing your car. However remember a little knowledge can be very dangerous. It is always advisable to arrange an independent inspection from organisations such as the AA or the RAC if you can afford to. For most people the purchase of a car is the second biggest in their lives only to the purchase of their home, and spending a small amount prior to the purchase of the vehicle could effectively save you a small fortune.

The following section advises on the literature and documentation, which should accompany your new car.

Paperwork:

When buying a new car check the paperwork carefully. There a several documents which are crucial to a vehicles history and legality.

The V5C document, which is often referred to as the “Log book” or the registration document. Check the registration date, number of owners and chassis number. Ensure that the chassis number on the document is the same as the one on the car. The chassis number or the VIN is usually visible on a plate, in the bottom near side of the windscreen, if however none is visible in this specific place, refer to the owners handbook, which should be kept in the car. Most cars have a chassis number stamped in at least two and sometimes three different places on the car. The chassis number will also be indicated on the vehicles M.O.T certificate if the vehicle has one.
When you complete the sale, ensure that the new owner's section of the V5C is filled out correctly, and that you take the relevant “new keepers supplement” section away with you. It is the responsibility of the seller to inform the DVLA of any keeper change, therefore the document should be filled in with the buyers name and address, and posted to the DVLA upon completion of the sale.

The service history booklet indicates the mileages and dates of any services the vehicle may have had and also gives a good indication of how the vehicle has been treated previously. Be cautious of big gaps between services and check to see if important services have been carried out, such as cam-belt changes or potentially expensive major services.

If the car is old enough to require an M.O.T ( 3 years after the date of registration), check the expiry date to make sure that the car is road legal, also where applicable try to tie in mileages and dates, to those indicted in the vehicles service history, this will enable you to ensure that the vehicle’s current indicated mileage is consistent with previous information given.
The new style M.O.T certificate should contain a barcode and have a stamp indicating the garage where the M.O.T test was carried out.

Make sure you get a signed and dated invoice or sales contract showing that you have completed the deal, and that you have paid the balance in full.